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amd or pentium (2 Viewers)

Beaky

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Good work... that system will kick ass...

I bought my

AMD 2600+
512 DDR
60 Gig (8mb cache)
Geforce 4 mx440
Burner
Case

for $760... i really should of gone for 80 gig... but i have a spare 80 gig that i can wack in :p
 

Huy

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Beaky, thanks for the vote!

however, if truth be told, i frequent other (unnamed) boards during the day/evenings.
school is becoming a burden as well. (will i live to regret my words?).
although i try and lend a hand at bos if i can manage it.

bring on the IT questions :)

/speaking of new purchases,
i just bought a new 17" LG Flatron F700B monitor for $260
and a new liteon 48/24/48/16 "ultra speed" cdrw/combo drive (dvd-rom included at 16x) for $100.

the previous overhaul of my system consisted of:
2x p4 2.4c socket478, 800mhz fsb, hyperthreading, ($700)

2x abit ic7 i875p, 800mhz fsb, 4x ddr400, ata/100, sata/150, agp 8x, usb2, 5.1 sound, firewire, etc ($600)

4x 512mb kingmax ddr400 dual channel tinybga ram (pc3200) ($600)

and an antec sonata blackatx midi tower, with a 380w true power psu. ($200)

rounded off figures, luckily i had to pay for half and my folks paid for the other half (i was making a system for them).

machine runs sweet at 3.3ghz each (overclock of 1.1ghz)
no additional cooling, standard heatsink and air cooled.

----
my wishlist?
~xmas 2003

a sony DRU510A
32/24/16 CD-RW including 12/4/4 DVD-ROM/-R/+R/-RW/+RW.

they're about $550 now, supporting both DVD+RW and DVD-RW (i.e. DVD+-R/RW drive, the best of both worlds!)
 
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Huy

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Originally posted by Beaky
I can get them from $400 from Supplier... :p
Sony DRU-510A, or DRU-510 +-R/W?
The external ones (UL) look great... but I'd prefer the internal model.

$400 hey, that's a nice price.
If only I had the cha-ching! ($$)

mmm... i'll wait until prices drop into the sub $300 mark
heheh, i remember paying $800 for my 2X burner in 96/97

it's still working, but ... these days (mind you, 8 years later, they are 1/8th the price! for 52x, over 2x ... gotta love the 300KB/s burning... not!)

here's the retail box:


retails for $699 (at sony.com.au)

4x dvd burning + and - (DVD+-R and +-RW)
32x cd-rom read
24x cd-r burning (write)
16x cd-rw (rewrite) '*ultra* speed' ... not 'high speed' :)
12x dvd-rom, dvd playback

* power burn, buffer underrun protection
* records+plays cdroms, cd audio, vcds, dvds, dvd-roms,
* both + and - formats
* can burn the 'mini' 80mm discs
* dvd region coding (though you can bypass that ;))

i should be promoting this :p
 
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Huy

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Originally posted by -=MLhtʻ=-
hey huy, any advise on what i should check wen i pick up my comp to make sure the cpu hasnt been overclocked?
check the clock speed after you've installed it
(obvious, but just make sure)

use cpu-z, or cpuid to clock frequencies and speeds.
look at the S code if it's an intel, double check on intel's website

if it's an amd, check the FPO/batch #
you can also check it on intel boxes/packaging as well.

if you're really skeptical, (and you've got an intel cpu),
there's a plant number on it, so you can search for online databases with the same production plant, week, fpo and batch numbers/ids, as well as the S code on it.

e.g.
amd barton 3000+ cpu, code AQUCA 0308, AXDA2800DKV3D or something like that.

S codes for intel p4's would be something like SL6WK
with plants located in malaysia,
FPO/batch #'s of L310A586, L311A774, etc (you get the gist).

but the best thing you could do is to check all the relevant docs, the packaging itself, labels, stickers, even the chip will have some indication,

finally, when you've got the chip installed, with heatsink/fan etc, get into windows (assuming you've installed it etc),
right click my computer, properties
check if it's correct, (also check in the bios if you want to),
multiplier settings, frequencies and clock settings.
then... you can run cpu-z (my preference) and other ones like wcpuid -- check to see if everything matches :)
 

Huy

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taking out the bios battery is usually done to reset the bios password. once you leave it out for a while, it'll reset the bios' memory so you can bypass any oem passwords that are already in place.

other than that, i don't see why you would want to take it out.
 

Huy

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there are two ways of resetting the bios password.
well, three

you can either reset it or disable it. but on the odd ocassion, you can still get into the bios if the bios itself has reverted back to its default password.

e.g. you can use AMI, Award, bios, setup, cmos, AMI_SW, AMI!SW/ or even AMI?SW/

if you have an award bios, you can use AWARD_SW which might work too, which overrides any set password. (sometimes j262 will work as a last resort).

but back to the topic,

jezzmo, that will work too :)
there's a jumper as you've noted which will reset the cmos password. but what if you can't find it? not even in the manual? (it happens). so you'll be searching for 3 pins adjacent to the battery -- when you can find the battery relatively quickly? just a thought.



then you'd have to move the jumper positions to the 2-3 position, if it's at 1-2, or to 1-2 if it's at 2-3, then boot the system, wait a few seconds and then shutdown. move the pin-positions back to the original pin position and then you'll have no password.

seems complicated, but it does the job :)

my alternative is just to take out the entire cmos battery. (hopefully it's not soldered on or anything!). take it out, wait a few minutes, put it back in. that does the trick.

sometimes if you do this, the password will revert back to its default (ami, cmos, setup, award, etc...) -- but either way, you can take the battery out completely in 1 go and boot up once, or you can boot up, shut down, boot up etc by switching pin positions from the 1-2 to 2-3 or 2-3 to 1-2.

whatever works for you ;)

/edit
about purchasing a new motherboard, that can't be good. so i can see why you're a bit weary about the cmos battery-removal method. the cmos pin-position method would be safer, yes, but it's all about personal preference, isn't it? :)
 

kaz1

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I can't tell the difference and this thread is like 7 years old lol.
 

Arcorn

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Back then I would have gone for AMD, that was back when their chips were actually competitive. But now Intel is really the only way to go.
 

iRuler

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It's a race, AMD vs Intel and also AMD vs Nvidia, they're always taking turns, but AMD's rep isn't as up there... however im using AMD and radeon5xxx and am happy so meh
 

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